The film is Superia 200, and this is a mish-mash of the last week or so…
Don’t ask me what the gear was, as that is an intriguing topic for another day.
I believe I have now used eight of the Tetanal kits…which means around 120 rolls of film (MF and 35mm included).
I thought I’d take the opportunity to clear up some misconceptions regarding color development, and share some of my insights thus far.
So in no particular order, here they are (for what they’re worth!)
- No, you don’t need a darkroom. (But you knew that already!!)
- No, it is not any harder than developing B&W film (there is actually less variability, as long as you control your temperatures properly).
- No, you don’t have to do inversions (I use agitations instead, as every tank leaks; I do not note any uneveness in development).
- No, you should not push your kit beyond 14 or 15-36 exposure rolls. (I use the last few for monkeying around with Cinema film and cross-processing and such…nothing mission-critical for sure).
- No, you cannot skip the surfactant step (Photo-flo or whatever…you absolutely have to do it after your Stabilizer; Your negatives may not last a million years, but at least they won’t have streaks or water spots).
- No, you do not need distilled water (unless you are developing MF negatives…then it actually actually matters). I use cool tap water with the Photo-flo, and the negatives are streak-free.
- Yes, it is worth the extra effort; and…
- The Pakon F-135 is a darn fine scanner for the price and convenience.
So there you have it. Plenty of time and money down the drain, and this is the best I have to offer you.
Does Baby J get photographed too much? Maybe so…but there is no harmful radiation involved, and the others won’t sit still long enough!
Oh and one more thing: You really should “give it a go” if you’re considering it; You don’t really need an immersion circulator or anything…but it certainly helps.
All the best,
(Footnote: Photos 13 and 14 copyright The Producer)