PSA

We interrupt this vacation feed to bring you an important Public Service Announcement:

The light is finally BACK.

😀

(Yes, it is brown and dull and muddy…but at least the light is back!)

This is Fuji C200 shot last night–it is looking remarkably Vista-like, so I am indeed going to have to do some more research…

Compendium 25 – Will it Blend?

Remember the video series where that blender company would intentionally grind up expensive, brand-new, and hard-to-find electronics, just to prove that their blenders were up to the task?

…Well, this is kind of like that, except that I periodically often test new gear to determine whether it works.  For me.

Ahem.

Anyhoo…somehow I always thought that if I ever bought a 35mm lens for the Nikon system, it would absolutely be the Sigma Art;

But this ain’t it.

However, this one is smaller, lighter, cheaper, and probably just as sharp.  And the background blur isn’t all that bad either.

And I’m not telling what it is.

🙂

Ok fine…it’s the Nikon 35mm f/1.8G ED FX (whew!) and it works on everything to date…including the all-important film bodies.

Yay.

This is Fuji Industrial 400 shot at ISO 320.

Because.

Compendium 22 – A Galaxy Far Away

Found a half-shot roll from the summer sitting in the F100, and finished it today.

The first 8 are on Kodak Gold, shot on the MP.  The next 17 are on Agfa Vista 200 from the F100 (as an aside, the 50/1.4G is hugely underrated on film) and Agfa Vista 200 just might be my “forever desert island outside film”–too bad it too has been discontinued.

Anyway, if you hadn’t already done the math, the title refers to the galaxies apart that the summer and the winter now seem…

Sunflowery

One of my favourite portraits of late.

Incidentally, I should point out that I am seeing –ZERO– difference between the “amateur/home” three-step colour development kits (developer-blix-stabilizer) and the four step “hoighty-toighty” kits (developer-bleach-fixer-stabilizer).  Furthermore, I actually haven’t been using inversions for years–agitations are just fine, no matter what you read.

Finally, you don’t need to agitate the Blix every 30 seconds…15 agitations every for the first part of every minute are sufficient.

I have updated my “Colour Development Guide” to reflect the reality of my process.

I have said it before, and I’ll say it again: If you can develop B&W, you can develop colour…as long as you have a reliable method for precise temperature control.